Arriving at sunrise in Cusco with Lizzie, Charlotte, and Patricia, we cabbed to our hostel Loki. I stayed in another Loki in Mancora, but this was another branch. It was definitely a different style, but still the same party atmosphere. We threw down our bags and grabbed food, while planning our day.
“Cusco was the site of the historic capital of the Inca Empire (13th century-1532) and was declared a World Heritage Site in 1983 by UNESCOMany believe that the city was planned and designed in the shape of a puma, a sacred animal.“
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cusco
We were all tired because of the trek we just finished, but we had to meet up with Charlotte’s contact to book our Machu Picchu hike. Jason from Chicago took a different bus, but met up with us to do the booking. As we walked downhill to the main square, we could over look the entire city and its beauty. One could feel the spiritual electricity in the city already. This was a place of culture, tradition and as lame as it sounds, magic of some sorts. Getting to the bottom near the Plaza San Francisco, we passed a long line that lapped back and forth doubling up everywhere. For some reason we thought it was something to do with voting because the election was soon and seriously the amount of people in line looked like it could have been half the population. Finally we asked someone and it turns out it was for a futbol (soccer) game coming up! Everyone really does love the sport here. Along the way, many companies tried to sell us deals on hikes, but we decided to test this one out first. We met up with Charlotte’s contact (I think friend of aunt or something) at the Plaza de Armas (main centre city square) and she took us to her agency. The head guy explained everything to us, but something wasn’t adding up. We were able to rent sleeping bags though, free of charge. The hike was going to be 4 days and 3 nights. After everyone pumped the company man with questions, we settled on agreeing to this plan and paid on the spot in cash.
The rest of the day we split up to do our different things. I went to get a massage, since my legs felt super tight and like I sprained both my legs’ muscles doing the Colca Canyon hike. So many local people sell you massages because in Cusco, everyone goes to see Mach Picchu and comes back exhausted. The facilities are nice, but it’s obviously not the same as Canada; however, it is a 4th of the price. For a while there wasn’t enough pressure, but then it started to hurt. In the end it was okay, but my legs were worn out and it hurt to walk. The other girls got waxing done, but I couldn’t be bothered with that.
This wall you'll find on your way to the San Blas District in the middle of Cusco's city centre. It is original Inca construction and still intact as if they were just built.
As we were getting ready that night to go to the bar literally facing our room from across the courtyard, an American guy came in to switch rooms and he said he started to volunteer to work there, so he was a bartender. We were pretty tired, but hadn’t gone out to drink in what felt like a long while, so we were convinced to go to the pub. I ran into a really cool Finnish girl in Arequipa I met at my hostel. She was 25 and travelling by herself too, but off soon to meet back with her boyfriend in Spain. The other girls met this great late 20s couple somewhere too and we all gathered together. It was a Thursday night, the music got turned up, and the events of the evening were “Pub Games.” There were obstacle courses with a shot prize at the end, musical chairs (that got pretty violent) and then a massive game of drunken twister. People were getting elbows in the eye and knees in their backs and I just sat back and watched this hilarious nonsense unfold in front of me. After that was finished, we created a dance floor in the center of the pub, which got everyone railed up even more. The next thing I know, I am marching our of the hostel in a mob of people to cabs going to a dance club called “Mama Afika’s” near the centre city square. There were sloppy hugs, comical dance moves, followed by bar dancing. It was packed with Loki hostal people. Sunrise broke and whoever was left got cabs back to the top of the hill where our hostel was.
The next day everyone was pretty incapable of moving. I had to look up flights to go back to Buenos Aires because that’s where I had to fly out of to go back to Canada. The Canadian girls I met from Edmonton were going to be there when I was, so I needed to book my ticket to have enough time to party with them before I left. I remember feeling a bit sick, but going to explore by myself. I really felt like I needed some time to reflect and be by myself. Being tired and hungover only adds to those feelings. I was thinking a lot of back home and actually getting excited for Christmas and to be with my family. As much as I loved where I was at the moment, the holidays would be very difficult to spend away from them. I went to a cute café called The Real McCoy to catch up on emails, my blog and figure out my thoughts for the remainder of my trip. While I was walking back, I ran into the bartender guy with a few friends and he convinced me to go out for dinner with them and apparently the other girls were meeting us there too. It was a cute place near the centre city square and I had an amazing tomato basil soup and salad. It really was delicious, but didn’t feel like eating too much. We all walked back, which was always a challenge because of the super steep hill. I was feeling that I needed more “me” time, but wanted to get up early in the morning to do some organic farming volunteering I saw posted on the bulletin board. I really try to commit to my word and do what’s possible to follow through. I figured it was a indication for me to do this, since before I left, I signed up for WWOOFing (World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms) in Argentina and Brazil, but my trip took a different turn and I didn’t end up doing it. This was something I had to do.
I woke up to what seemed like super early after a rough night’s sleep or rowdy people and people in our room being loud walking in and out slamming the door. I got down stairs, ate breakfast and drank my coffee real fast, but all while talking to these 2 really sweet girls, who just got back that morning from Machu Picchu. It was awesome to hear their stories and encouragement about the whole trek. We signed up for the Salkantay trek, which I just found out was the hardest one offered, oh boy. I went to the main entrance to meet the group, but there was a time mix-up. One sign said 9am, the other said 10am. I was an hour early the front desk admitted, since it really started at 10am. So I hung around, but my tiredness kicked in already.
Finally we all gathered together and there were about 8 of us total including our hippie guide. He worked at an organization that does a bunch of volunteer projects – building, teaching English, farming etc… we seriously all packed into his mini hippie van and took off into the mountains. It was more than an hour drive, since his van could only go so fast. There were 2 guys from Vancouver Island, who were the typical stoners; funny and kind of annoying at the same time. 2 guys were brothers from Australia. There was a Swedish girl and a Portuguese girl and me. The view was spectacular and inspiring; this is their farmland.
We arrived and had an introduction to the crops they grew at the massive farm. We saw all the varieties of potatoes and beans they grow. Also we learnt about the different medicinal plants and their beneficial properties. This just solidified the fact that anything (or most) suffering or bothering symptoms can be cured naturally. We looked around the place, I was in awe by the view and then we moved up the road to their fields and main site.
Once we got there, the farmers showed us their guinea pig farm. This animal is a pet to us, but eaten as a specialty in Peru. Apparently you can eat them after 4 months age… They were super cute and I would never eat one. You have to separate the family clans, or they will fight. When they breed, they usually have 1 or 2 babies. The next time, they produce 3 or 4 babies and it goes up the more times they breed. Guinea pigs’ life span is usually 2 years though…
Afterwards we went and gathered their homemade manure made from the guinea pigs’ decomposed dung. We carried bag after bag over to the potato field we were helping fertilize that day. While we were walking once down the little street to the field, some teenage school boys were seriously pointing and giggling at me and the two other girls. Soon after, our guide translated that it’s still unusual for a female to work in the fields and do hard labour like this, so they were laughing at us and made teasing comments to the farmer. It was weird that this was the case because I’ve seen older women working hard, but maybe it’s because it was their land they were maintaining. Once I got to the fields, I was in wonder. These farmers completely lived off their land and so did the locals. Rolling hills blanketed in rows with sowed seeds. The skies were blue and the fields were a striking green. This really was an impressive site. We threw down the manure into a pile and were put to work. Our tasks were to place the manure in a “banana” moon (semi circle) shape around the plant, so when the rainfalls, the manure shifts downward onto the plant. It wasn’t difficult, but it was time consuming and you were bent over the entire time. I can’t believe these farmers did all their fields manually like this. As the day continued, the Brazilian girl and I became close and were each others look-out while they were peeing.
The farmers gave us some some special homemade chicha (purple corn drink) that was actually mixed with quinoa. Apparently the farmers use this drink for lift energy levels and give it to growing children; quinoa has a lot of protein. After a bit more work, it was time for our late afternoon lunch. We tasted some of their different potatoes they grew and homemade sauces and spreads for them. One was avocado and spicy and another was made with beans (I think. Both delicious and filling. We went outside to the back forest and they picked some fruit for us to try. They were the traditional passion fruit called “Maracuya.” The little bits inside you eat explode your taste buds and the flavor is sort of like those fuzzy peach candies. While I was picking apart one and eating it, there were these little boys that came over to see us white people and sat down on a log. They were the cutest and laughing together having big smiles on their face. I took a picture of them, but in return, gave them 2 Oreos each.
We packed up the supplies into the hippie van and took off back to the hostel. I was covered in dirt, sweaty, and couldn’t be happier. The van was winding down the mountain roads and the sun was starting to set. It was really a beautiful scene. It will be hard not being around mountains constantly. Their vegetated or forestry peaks have been my background for a while now.
That night was tired, but wanted to out. I chummed around with mostly the Finnish girl and the couple, but the Vancouver Island guys I met too. They had a girl traveler with them that they met along the way too. She was by herself too! This makes twice in one day I met other solo backpacking girls and it was really a great feeling. I can’t remember where this girl was from or what her name was, but she made me feel happy and proud for what I’ve been doing and have accomplished so far. We talked about organic farming and relating it to architecture and design and she followed the conversation. THAT was the best part! I talked about my ideas and plans about relating the two and she could keep up with what I was saying. In my entire trip, anyone who I ever attempted to talk to about design or architecture kinda of brushed away the conversation and steered the topic elsewhere. Then we all went to Mama Afrika’s again to dance and I got caught up with other people. I ended up going back with some people and sun was about to rise. We walked up the hill further and climbed on top of some walls and shed roofs. The sun did rise in beautiful pink and orange, but behind the mountains. It was still enjoyable until people came to yell at us to get down from the roof. We strolled back to the hostel and slept a little bit. I remember though that I never got to say goodbye or talk more with that girl, which I felt a little like a jerk about it. I wish her all the best.
It was the big Saturday before my trip and loads to get done and prep for it. Lizzie, Charlotte, Patricia and I went out to Jack’s Café for breakfast, which was a popular suggested place that had super good and healthy food. The portions were amazing too. All of a sudden my U.S.A. friend Emily from Huanchaco walks in! I found out she was in Cusco through a mutual friend and she ended up contacting me, but she came to find me to make dinner plans! AAAhhhh I was SO excited! I never got to say a proper goodbye to her because after we went to the club “Ama” she went away that weekend and I moved on to the next place. She is a really great woman and definitely someone I look up to. We confirmed for dinner and I left to try and get everything done, since I was FINALLY going on the Machu Picchu trek tomorrow! (Well actually starting at 3am). Woo hoo!
My mind was going crazy with what I had to do for the day and I think I made about 2 or 3 task lists (I love making lists). I had to book my flight from Cusco to Lima and then one from Lima to Buenos Aires. If I had 4 more days to spare, I would have taken the bus, but I was down to only days remaining. The internet wasn’t working at the hostel and kept screwing up while I was trying to pay for my flight, which clearly was frustrating because you never know if you will be charged twice or not. After rage had gotten the best of me, I stormed down the street to an internet café and got everything settled. I arranged an airport pick-up from the hostel I will be staying at I B.A. and I printed all the documents of confirmation. As I went back to my hostel, the skies were grey and it started to rain. I starred the “rain gear” on my packing check-list for the hike. I still was adamant about going to the market to get some souvenirs for my family. This was my Christmas shopping and HAD to get done. Along the way, I picked up some supplies for the hike like extra bandages and actually tenser bandages for my ankle that killed so much on the Colca Canyon trek. I really loved the Alpaca knit hats and scarves, which I got for my dad, brother-in-law, and sister. I had my eye out for a special “Inca Symbol” style of earrings for my mom, but was settled on any of the colours I had found. Back in Argentina, I was getting my brother an official futbol (soccer) jersey. While I was looking around the booths, I almost got suckered into buying another sweater for myself, but I fought hard to resist it. I left empty handed with no earrings for my mom, but I needed to rush back to the main square to meet Emily for dinner.
We met back at Jack’s café in the square. I know, I know, same place twice, be adventurous. But when there is good food, decent prices and limited time, you got to do what you got to do. We had lovely catch up chats and I fantasized about going back to Huanchaco. She just recently extended her stay and decided to remain there over Christmas. It was a bold move, but she gave it a lot of thought and it was the best for her at this time. She just finished the Machu Picchu hike and it was great to hear her motivational comments and words of wisdom. She gave me some altitude sickness pills that I know I will probably have to take at some point. I was really thankful to have the chance to see her again and have the chance for a proper farewell.
Walking back in the pouring rain, I was getting nervous about the hike. How much would it suck if it rained all 4 days? Ohman, all you can do is be prepared and think happy thoughts. …and pack lots of snacks, which I did on the way to the hostel. I got special protein bars and coca treats to help my (possible and probable) altitude sickness, along with the pills Emily gave me.
I got back, packed and attempted to fall asleep. There were annoying new people in our room and Patricia yelled at them. With little sleep, let’s see how this turns out…
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