I dragged my stuff to the bus stop in Mancora and by 8:00am the sun was beating down and I was breaking out in a sweat. I waited with some British girls, who seemed quite friendly. They were staying at the Loki in Mancora too, but I hadn’t see them around. I sat with one of them the whole way to Chiclayo. They were going farther and all the way to Trujillo. Just hearing the name, made me think of Huanchaco and all my friends still there. I had to fight the thought of continuing on and going back there to visit them – I had my own trip to finish! Ohman, 2.5 weeks left! Oh, my, gosh. There really was SO much to see and some of it will be highlights of my trip (Machu Picchu). This was the kicker that kept my travelling feet moving fast.
I made the decision to not go to see the Nazca Lines near Arequipa because of time. I later found out that around the time I WOULD of gone, there was a plane crash. I can’t help feeling relieved that I didn’t make the stop after I heard the news.
I picked out a hostel from my guidebook and rocked up. The guy at the front desk was SO nice and spoke English well. He was maybe a couple years older than me, with long dreads, skinny body, and glasses. He looked like a nerdy (and probably more helpful) version of my ex-boyfriend. Right away he ordered overnight bus tickets to Lima and connecting ticket to Arequipa for the next day. I walked around, ate Won Ton soup (now a staple) while watching a soap opera in Spanish with some locals. They were on the edge of their seats and would look back at me always surprised how intently I was paying attention to it. It was pretty dumb, it was a high school setting and some guy who looked like he was 14 was threatening a girl. She had to warn this girl enemy of hers he was “dating” that he was dangerous. I lasted through the whole thing, but couldn’t through the next one. I strolled back threw the busy streets, didn’t even unpack my bag, organized my maps for tomorrow, and crashed hard. It was my brother’s Birthday I remember.
Usually the restaurants attached the hostels were decent. I don’t know if this one didn’t really “do” breakfast, but it was very difficult for some reason to get that organized. I got some stale bus with a square melted piece of cheese on it that looked like a “Kraft’s single” from Canada. She almost forgot the instant coffee too. The juice was definitely the best part and I drank it while planning my day’s attempt of trying to fit everything in before my bus at 9:00. There was a archaeological site and museum an hour and half away from Chiclayo. Then 2 more “acclaimed” cultural museums 20 minutes from Chiclayo in the opposite direction. I guess I was going to come back here to have a quick bite inbetween.
I threw my large back pack in storage and my Dr. Marten boots in a plastic bag beside it. I got a taxi to the bus stop and was completely lost. I for a big van “combis” to Sipάn. It was kinda rough looking, the the other nicer one was more expensive and wasn’t leaving for another hour. I joined the locals, got some weird looks, and kept to myself near the window. I was by myself; a little nervous, but excited. We picked-up a woman along the way with a baby and she sat next to me. She needed to feed the baby and it had to lie down. I communicated that I didn’t mind if it was half on my lap and smiled big. She appreciated it and thanked me. When she got off, she waved goodbye to me and I felt more secure and really good about everything. I was confused about when to stop, but someone pointed and then helped (practically pushed) me off the bus.
It was dusty, hot, there was no tour guide, so I just looked at stuff trying to understand the descriptions.
Archaeological site of Sipάn
“is a Moche archaeological site in northern Peru that is famous for the tomb of El Señor de Sipán (Lord of Sipán), excavated in . It is considered to be one of the most important archaeological discoveries in the last 30 years, because the main tomb was found intact and undisturbed by thieves. The tomb of the Lord of Sipan has been dated to around 100 AD. The tombs in the area are of adobe construction, of pyramidal shape, now eroded by successive El Nino events. Excavations continue.
It is believed that, as with ancient Egyptians, the people placed grave goods, including the remains of servants, to ensure survival of the elite into the afterlife. Also discovered were hundreds of small clay pots with individual faces, understood to be offerings made by the lord's subjects. Several dozens of such Moche tombs likely existed at one time, but almost all known tombs on the coast of Peru have been looted.”
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sip%C3%A1n
In February 1987, shortly after the police found traditional handicrafts, archaeologists decided to take a closer look at the small platform of dirt now called "Huaca Rajada" or Adobe ruins. They are badly eroded pyramids. They found amazing discoveries of the Moche people, who lived about 100 BC to 650 AD. This site was used for burials of people of the highest rank. They are still excavating.
So far, researchers have dug out 3 major tombs and other minor burials. Lots of ceramic pots and decadent jewelry were found. The Moche buried the dead laying flat. The one found leader was carbon-date to 290 AD.
http://www.inkanatura.com/coastchiclayotrujillosipanhuaca.asp
Museo de Sitio Sipάn
I was doing my own thing, but near this group of 40 yr old men from Lima. 2 of them wanted a picture with me, which was weird. This sometimes happens, but more often than you think though. They showed me where to catch the bus back and then the one guy gave me his business card to call him… This has happened to me before and I actually don’t get how this people actually think you will call them. Obviously if you are stupid enough to do so, they will only expect one thing… Anyway, he paid my bus fare after I insisted not, but as soon as we got back to Chiclayo, I politely thanked them and quickly took a taxi in the opposite direction.
I grabbed some really good VEGETARIAN food, but I was worried about how the salad and yogurt smoothie would affect my stomach. I guess we’ll see. For some reason, one of the Brits encouraged drinking milk/ yogurt when ill because it “coated the stomach,” but everything I have read, what my mom has told me and even what the Spanish pharmacists’ have stressed is NO diary. … So we’ll see.
I had to find another combis area for ones that went to Lambayeque 20 minutes away. I was definitely rushing to get there before both museums closed and so I could fit it in before I left for Lima…
… then I fell in a hole. Yes, a hole. On a street corner. But wait, not just any old hole, a cement one with jagged edges that scrapped all the way up my shin. Then I was bleeding and it stung like a $*%^!#$^&( !!! Then I got furious. Why the fuck is this hole not filled!?!? Oh wait, the tax money doesn’t get used properly. Clearly something was removed for this hole to be there and now knee deep, my leg was filling it. I was trying to play it cool after this happened, since I was in public. Still slightly confused and angry, I hobbled to the bus area with a bloody, dirty left shin.
These combis (big van) tried to fit honestly 12 people. I was literally sitting on a teen school girl with a white uniform that I tried to dodge with my leg. Since time is of the essence always on this type of transportation, they literally open the door to pick up or drop people off while the van is STILL moving. Seeeeeriously.
I got off, got orientated and went to the first Museum. I sent 20 minutes trying to communicate with someone if there was a first aid kit to help clean up my leg, which was still painfully stinging. The security guard FINALLY found an English person for me to talk to, since he thought that I was just SHOWING him my bloody leg. Yeah, just for fun, I like doing that (?). Why did I forget my dictionary today…
I then got to browse the Brüning National Archaeological Museum, which displayed objects and artifacts of Peru’s ancient civilizations; ceramics, jewelry and textiles.
Brüning National Archaeological Museum
“Upon opening in 1966, the Brüning Museum became northern Peru’s preeminent museum, specializing in Peru’s pre-Hispanic cultures. The museum was named for Hans Heinrich (Enrique) Brüning, a German engineer and amateur ethnographer who lived in and studied the region in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Brüning’s photography, drawings, and cultural findings galvanized anthropological and archaeological study in the region.”
http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/1470170/Bruning-Museum
Afterwards I went to the Royal Tombs of Sipάn Museum, which you could see at the end of the road. It was big and shaped like a pre-Columbian pyramid and very modern inside. I got an English tour guide to explain everything especially since I hadn’t gotten one for the archaeological site that morning. It was beneficial.
Royal Tombs of Sipάn Museum
The museum was closing and I needed to head straight back to the hostel. Local guys were trying to fill up their combis and shouting at me to try to go with them. It got pretty intense one time and as I was about to go in one, another guy grabbed me trying to pull me in the other combis’ direction. I started yelling at the man confused and angry, he let go of my arm, and I sat in the front seat with the driver. As we were driving back to Chiclayo the guy in the back of the big van asked for more money than I paid on the way up, so I just paid him that and said I didn’t have anymore and that what he asked was too expensive. Then the driver started to ask me personal questions about where are my friends? What hostel am I staying at? Obviously I lied threw my teeth and stopped trying to have a polite conversation with him. Lesson learned. I got off before my stop, and just walked the rest of the way back.
I ate some healthy coca snacks and the taxi was late picking me up. I know that my own bus was probably going to be at least a little late, since that’s the usual way, no matter what. The taxi was REALLY late and I was getting mad at the one guy, who called it for me; I had no problem flagging one down. Anyway in a rush and confusion, I got my backpack and finally jumped into the cab. Once I was on the bus and settled, I realized something. My Dr. Martens weren’t with me! Nooooooo!!!! These were my sister’s originals from the 90s (I think she wore them to a BushX concert too) and they had been the only closed toe shoe I had. They were definitely showing their wear, but still! Also, I planned on doing a hike in Arequipa! Urhh… now I had to hunt down hiking boots. I tried to not let this bother me and ate the shitty food on the bus; however, thankful that this bus gave me at least something to eat... and had a bathroom (key factors that don’t always happen).
I woke up in the morning to Scooby Doo, the newer people version one playing. I was in a daze and couldn’t wait to get off the bus. I got to Lima and now waited… I had another bus coming, but I arranged with Piero’s cousin, Bruno to hang out for the afternoon to pass time. Let’s see if this works out…
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